CPHFW: The best looks from AW24
Baum und Pferdgarten
LOVE UND FRIENDSHIP - Since 1999
"This was one for the books!" was the caption on Baum und Pferdgarten's backstage video posted on their Instagram the evening after their show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. A show that this year was more than just a showcase of their upcoming AW24 collection, but also a love letter between the two designers and friends Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten.
This year's collection, named 'LOVE UND FRIENDSHIP - Since 1999', celebrated the iconic Danish fashion brand's 25th anniversary, showing us brand new styles, taking us back in time with familiar archival pieces and teasing a forthcoming sneaker collaboration. The show, held at Refshaleøen in Copenhagen, showed us the absolute best of both Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave's creative minds, highlighted by feminine handmade jewellery from Yours Truly by Peter Jensen - a close friend of the fashion house.
Corporate Core & Sequin-mesh
The collection harmoniously exudes the character of both Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, with designs that perfectly balance classic timeless design with a playful, innovative edge.
This year's collection speaks beautifully to the emerging 'Corporate Core' trend, with classic suits and shirts, elegant silhouettes, pinstripes and trench coats. Combined with details like mesh overlays, sequins, shiny red leather and alternative layering, the collection has the familiar Baum und Pferdgarten look we all know and love. We saw a colour palette that is clearly shaped by the season of the collection, with subtle and dark colours like navy, burgundy and tan, but we were also introduced to colour combinations like baby blue and brown and pastel pink and grey.
GANNI
Copenhagen Nostalgia
GANNI once again makes itself unavoidable at Copenhagen Fashion Week, breaking the norms with its new collection. You may have looked in vain for the GANNI AW24 show in this year's CPHFW programme, like many of us. After 10 years as a regular feature on the catwalk at Copenhagen Fashion Week, GANNI is taking a step back, dropping their regular show and making room for future design talent in the fashion world.
But that hasn't stopped GANNI from once again creating a unique AW24 collection, this year called 'Copenhagen Nostalgia'. A step back from CPHFW has also meant reflection for Creative Director, Ditte Reffstrup, who describes the collection as a love letter to the GANNI team and the city that has been the centre of the GANNI adventure - Copenhagen. The latest photoshoot of the AW24 collection is presented with a red and white backdrop representing the Danish flag, but the Tivoli red colour also has a greater sentimental meaning for Ditte Reffstrup and the GANNI team.
The Grown-Up GANNI Girl
In the new AW24 collection we see our GANNI Girl evolve from youthful and playful to a more grown-up sophisticated GANNI Girl. The collection is clearly marked by a more elevated creative line, where black shades, grey-silver hues and neutral earth tones make up the colour palette. But the mature GANNI Girl has certainly not become boring, combining her outfit with elements of metallic textiles, burnt orange colours and pastel pinks.
Many of the familiar GANNI characteristics are still present in the AW24 collection, such as oversized jackets, innovative fabrics, wild textures and contrasts. We definitely haven't seen the last of eyelets and belt buckles either. The hyper popular look of GANNI's Buckle Ballet Flats is seen on everything from boots to bags and is combined with patent leather in new metallic colours. The popular Bou Bag also makes its entrance in the AW24 collection and starred in GANNI's 'Fabrics of The Furture' show, where it was done in innovative fabrics and brand new colours.
Stine Goya
ART.WORK.
Last season, for Stine Goya's SS24 collection, she took her show to her home street and this season we get even closer to designer Stine Goya. In the fashion house's own Atelier, which was transformed into an art gallery in collaboration with British artist David Risley, the new AW24 collection was presented. The collection 'ART.WORK.' reflects Stine Goya's devotion and love for art - how it has shaped Stine Goya as a brand and as a person. The Stine Goya house is characterised by its artistic prints and they serve as the foundation of the identity that makes Stine Goya a beloved and well-known brand worldwide.
At the same time, we saw a show that reflected a sense of humility towards the entire Goya creative team. The creative personalities behind each print, design and craft were portrayed by David Risley, and the paintings formed part of the interior decor on display in the atelier. Even the entire backstage team made an entrance, along with Stine Goya herself, at the end of the show.
Architectural motifs & hand-drawn poppies
With art as the backbone of the collection, we once again see some stunning prints from the AW24 collection. Elegant architectural motifs and hand-drawn poppies adorned several items on the runway, alongside classic Goya checks, jacquard woven details and head-to-toe glitter outfits.
As with Baum und Pferdgarten, we see hints of the 'Corporate Core' trend, with midi-length skirts and oversized tailored jackets, but styled with a mix of feminine silk blouses, intense burgundy leather and raw metal studs. Metal hardware also featured in several key items from the collection, with large jewellery-like details incorporated into the garments.